Edify Edmonton’s #1 2025 Best New Restaurant delivers and you can try it for yourself during Downtown Dining Week
By Lauren Kalinowski
When I get my hands on an elk steak or a whole rabbit I can’t wait to search all my recipe books, deep dive the internet, survey neighbour grandmas, and try to find the best way to prepare it. So when I see things on the menu like bison cheeks and raw elk it’s definitely on my list of places to go. And Bernadette’s, recently rated the top new restaurant by Edify Magazine, is at top of Edmonton’s list now with wild Alberta game on the menu. It’s calling itself Indigenous fine dining with ingredients sourced locally.
The online reservation was categorized as “counter” seating, which we were unsure of until we arrived. We knew it wasn’t the bar and it wasn’t regular seating. It turned out to be a window facing counter where we could peer through lacy curtains at 104 St. I don’t mind this seating with one person, but I wouldn’t choose it for a group as it makes conversation awkward sitting in a line. There are chairs though, it’s not like Bar Bricco’s standing counters at the window (love those for a quick cocktail but not a meal). It gave me no sense of the restaurant atmosphere though, as I had my back to the room the entire time. Variations of drumming and throat singing made an unusual but appropriate, on-brand background soundtrack.
We had confusion from the get-go, after ordering 2022 Indigenous World Gewurzstraminer ($67 btl) from Sylix in the Okanagan. One can always rely on the Okanagan’s light summer wines to be delicious – like a Riesling or Gewurzt. And this one did deliver, it was drinkable and light and lovely. Unfortunately, our server reported, the vineyard had burned in last summer’s fires so they are no longer producing wine and have switched to spirits. We ended up with two extra glasses on the house as we had some confusion with our very-eager server, but it was handled well and he recovered. I have to give him props, he came up to me later and asked for feedback and told me he was only three months into the job. He was clearly trying his best and had been trained with care.
I prefer a slow meal for something like this, we were told the plates were all “designed to share”, family style. So we ordered one course at a time and hope to draw the night out to enjoy it and catch up. Unfortunately the reservation had a maximum seating time as there was another reservation after us for those exact same chairs.
I have a bone to pick on this one, and it’s not restaurant-specific. I get that restauranteurs want to sell out to maximize revenue every night. However, on a nice meal, I want more than my allotted one hundred and five minutes. I hate when courses come out jumbled together, or there’s no time to breathe between plates. I understand why restaurants do it, but is there no room for a few overflow chairs to rotate guests through so I’m not rushed out without dessert? I’m not sure what the solution is but there has to be one. Or ask me in my reservation how much time I want.
I digress from the food, when we started eating it after lots of catching up and chatting, it was phenomenal. Our first course was the Raw Bison (32), and we added Bannock Medallions ($3). The Bannock was delicious and toasty but unnecessary with the rich meat. It was a carpaccio style, thin deep red slices of bison sliced with blueberries, raspberries, capers and shallots. A squeeze of lemon was advised, and it amped up the flavour profile. The sweet berries with the salty capers on velvety bison dissolved into bright magnificence on my tongue.
Next we tried the Potato Dumplings & Rabbit Ragu, with a story of the chef’s inspiration from his childhood. We inquired on the source of the rabbit, (it’s not always easy to find in town) and the supplier is Wild Game Meats with some of the other main course fare. Due to lactose intolerance we had it without cheese but it was still incredibly salty. Not too salty, but it would have been with the grated parmigiana. The texture of the gnocchi were just right – fluffy, soft and tender – and matched the light yet meaty ragu. It would have Nonna’s approval.
Saskatoon Berry Brisket on bannock was the star of this show. The server told us how it was an OG dish, back in the catering days it was served in a sandwich. I wish I could order it that way now! It was pull-apart tender, sweet and saucy, that rib-sticking comforting tender beef will haunt my dreams. The halal beef was cooked with Saskatoon berries and caramelized onions, and this combination is the best I’ve tasted.
We finished the meal Italian-style, with a salad course as the finale. The Pipon Salad, translated from Cree to Winter Salad, completed the gastronomical adventure. Crunchy endive, bitter radicchio, and roasted walnuts were drenched (in the good way) in an oily truffle vinaigrette. I wanted to pick up the plate at the end and lap up the dressing, it was that good. Spring greens will soon be crowding out the peppery winter greens so I’m getting them in before they’re gone.
Unfortunately, as mentioned we did not have time for dessert. We went back out to the street from the glow of candlelight. I’m sure Bernadette’s will push through growing pains, they are certainly eager to do well, and the food speaks for itself. It stands to be a destination for Edmonton visitors, offering food you simply can’t find elsewhere.
Bernadette’s
10114 104 Street NW
Edmonton, Alberta
Edmonton
(587) 879 4317
website
Tues-Sat: 3PM-close
Sun: 5PM-close
Happy Hour: 3PM to 5 PM
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