Review by Lauren Kalinowski
Te-amo, Te-quila, Taco Vida!
Nestled amongst the big name chain restaurants, The Taco Shop was welcomed by West Edmonton Mall’s Bourbon Street in May 2024. It is apparently a local one-off spot that fits right into the party atmosphere and has amazing, Canadian-Mexican food. Slinging tacos & tequila, the menu is broad enough that anyone can find something to enjoy, even the gringos, but not too big that choices are overwhelming.
The bright blue, hot pink, and sunny yellow decor is a party under coloured LED lights as you walk through a rainbow tunnel into the restaurant. The space is huge, cavernous even, extending back into the bowels of the mall. Hanging lanterns, street art style murals and draping greenery fill in the brick-walled space so it feels like you’re sitting in a big Mexican courtyard. An extensive back bar shows off the widest range of agave liquors I’ve seen in Edmonton, over 100 choices. There’s a whole tequila menu sorted by Blanco, Reposado and Anejo options with Cristalino, Joven, Mezcal, and Sotol sections averaging $15 per ounce and up.
We started with a delicious 2 oz strawberry-coconut margarita ($18.5) that “hit the spot”, according to my partner, and a non-alcoholic, slightly too sweet lime margarita ($7.75) for myself. On another night it would have been just right with some Don Julio, but I made do. We admired the on-theme Patron Tree ($60) drink samples the table across from us was sharing, in mini bright coloured tequila bottles of lime, strawberry, blue pineapple and mango margaritas. The kids in the restaurant were all enjoying multicoloured bottles of Jarritos ($5). There’s a take-home 4-pack of The Taco Shop canned lime margaritas or palomas for $26.
Since my favourite snack is chips and salsa, we had to try the Salsa Experience ($19), 6 dips on a platter with a big basket of tortilla chips. Mini molcajete bowls held black bean refritos in the middle, circled by pico de gallo, sikil pak (ground sunflower dip), salsa verde, chipotle salsa and guacamole. Everything was fresh, flavourful and fantastic. The chipotle salsa balanced smoky and spicy (I’m not usually one for spicy) that held the tomatoey goodness. I could have drank a bowl of the stuff. The pico de gallo was the right texture to meld flavours without becoming soggy. A new condiment for me, the ‘sikil pak sunflower seed salsa’ was creamy, nutty and stood in for cheese in its comforting richness. I have a whole new appreciation for pepitas now. The salsa verde was fine, a bit too acidic perhaps. Another standout was the guacamole, tasting just-made in its freshness. Highly recommend this if you’re a chips ‘n salsa fan like me.
The main course meals were huge. We tried two of the 3-taco plate options ($19.5 each), Crispy Habanero Tofu and Chirozo Potato. Unfortunately the restaurant doesn’t offer a mix ‘n match often, but for a crowd there’s a 12-taco platter where you can try all the flavours. For an upgrade, there are also Feelin Lujoso (Luxurious) plates, (2 tacos for $21.5) with options like shrimp, salmon, octopus and brisket. All are served on corn tortillas with Mexican rice. The portions were too big to finish and definitely could have been shared with friends. The tofu tacos were interesting in the fried, crunchy coating, but overpowered with chipotle mayo sauce. I would have enjoyed more red cabbage and less tofu. The crumbled chorizo-potato filling was flavourful, spicy and rich with creamy jalapeno salsa.
Other options on the menu included ceviches, tostadas, cheese crisps (nachos), soup, and salad. I also tried the Crunchy Taco Salad (21.5), massive in size, an entire rainbow platter full of carne asada, black beans, roasted corn, radish, pico de gallo, tortilla strips on lettuce greens finished with a big scoop of guac, cotija cheese, and a smoky chipotle mayo. It was the taco salad of my dreams.
We were too full for dessert, so we didn’t try the Churros ($12), but will come back another day when our eyes aren’t bigger than our stomachs. Near the end of the meal the festive mariachi music was turned off and the Oilers game was piped in on full volume, which I could have done without, as a bad not-hockey-loving Edmontonian. But the atmosphere was fun. The food was fresh and plentiful. The drinks were just what we wanted. We’ll be back.
The Taco Shop
1642 Bourbon Street
West Edmonton Mall
8882 170 St
Edmonton
587-525-6499
website
S, M, T: 11AM to 10PM
W, Th: 11AM to 11PM
F, S: 11Am to 12AM
Weekday Happy Hour: 3PM to 5 PM, 9PM to close
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